Stewart Island Secrets

Getting to Rakiura Stewart Island is part of the adventure. You've come this far, so what's another dose of intrepid travel as you cross the sometimes-tumultuous Foveaux Strait to reach your destination?

A 20-minute flight or an hour-ish long ferry ride are your options out of Bluff, and both come with a reputation attached to their boarding passes. However, catch a sunny, benign weather day for either mode of transport to Rakiura Stewart Island and this majestic destination reveals itself long before you make landfall.

One of the first things that strikes you about Rakiura Stewart Island is the scale of the place. Looking at a map of New Zealand, it's easy to dismiss it as the full stop below the Mainland. But in reality, this is no mere Waiheke Island. It even kicks Great Barrier into touch. It's a vast and rugged landmass of over 1,700 square kilometres, with approximately 400 lucky souls residing mainly in and around the village of Oban calling it their permanent home.

But beyond Oban (which bustles in its own unique way, especially when the ferry is arriving or departing), 80 percent of the island is protected as Rakiura National Park, which helps gives the place a wild, untamed character.

As you'd expect, one of the island's biggest drawcards is its wildlife. Rakiura Stewart Island is widely regarded as one of the best places in New Zealand to spot kiwi in its natural habitat. The Stewart Island tokoeka in particular is more visible here than in many other parts of the country, and night walks near Oban can be surprisingly productive if you are quiet and use a red light rather than a bright torch. Going with a guide is even better.

Guided kiwi tours are popular because they will improve your chances of spotting our national bird in its own backyard while helping to ensure the birds are disturbed as little as possible. Beyond kiwi, the island is also home to weka, kākā, penguins, seals, and a rich variety of seabirds, making it a dream destination for birders.

A trip to Ulva Island / Te Wharawhara is one of the most rewarding things to do while visiting Rakiura Stewart Island. Walking through bush vibrant with bird life, you begin to understand just what's possible without predators. A short water taxi ride from Halfmoon Bay or Golden Bay, this sanctuary (predator free since 1997) is another haven for native birdlife. The walking tracks are easily traversed and well maintained, winding through ancient podocarp forest to quiet beaches and sheltered coves. The abundance of birdsong is genuinely noticeable from the moment you step foot on the island.

And if you enjoy walking, you're in the right place. The Rakiura Track is one of New Zealand's Great Walks and covers approximately 32 kilometres through forest, mudflats, and along sweeping beaches. Usually completed over three days, it offers a manageable multi-day hike if you're up for it.

But if you don't want to commit to an overnight trek, there are also plenty of shorter walks from Oban. Observation Rock is a steep but brief climb with panoramic views over Paterson Inlet and Ulva Island, and especially beautiful at sunset. Ackers Point leads to a historic lighthouse and is a good spot to look for little blue penguins at dusk, while easier paths such as the Fuchsia Walk / Raroa Reserve Track provide a gentler introduction to the island's lush native bush.

The coastline offers just as much appeal as the forest. Scenic boat cruises and water taxis open up access to bays, inlets, and wildlife-rich shorelines that can't be reached by road. Kayaking in Paterson Inlet is another memorable way to experience the landscape, with calm waters, and hidden coves featuring beautiful white sands, and frequent birdlife.

Fishing is also a classic local activity, as you'd expect. Rakiura Stewart Island is famous for its blue cod, which often appears on dinner plates at the handful of cafés and eateries in Oban, including the legendary South Sea Hotel – the southernmost pub in New Zealand and the social heart of town. You can book rooms here if you really want to be at the centre of the action, although there are plenty of other accommodation providers and private stay options on the island.

The island's Māori name, Rakiura, is often translated as "glowing skies," and the island has been recognised as a Dark Sky Sanctuary, making it a superb place for stargazing and, in the cooler months, for catching the elusive Aurora Australis. On a clear night, the stars alone are reason enough to come.